Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Buena BUENA Onda

holaaaa. Okay so I know I´ve been getting worse and worse at this blog update thing and I´m sorry but life is really wonderful so at the same time I´m not. One of my bestest bestest buddies, Jessie, spontaneously bought a ticket to come from Cape Town to Buenos Aires to visit me.
There is no way to describe to someone who´s never lived in a foreign country by themselves how lonely it gets, how beautiful it is to have a chosen sister from a ¨former life¨to share things with.

She arrived at the Ezeiza airport on Sunday at 1pm. I brought her to the San Telmo fair, introduced to her the magic of choripan, a chorizo (sausage) sandwich, and we watched couples dance tango in the square.
On Monday I introduced her to my friends Mosqui and Pablo, and we went to the Recoleta park and drank beer while takin some sun and listening to Mosqui play bagpipes. Jessie and I got a coffee after, went back to Cabellito to nap, then returned to Recoleta at about 1030 that evening. Mosqui and Pablo had prepared us an INCREDIBLE dinner as always, which we followed by wine and dancing to Brazilian music in the apartment. We all fell asleep while watching this surreal animation film called ¨Paprika,¨which we set to have audio in English and subtitles in Spanish. The next morning Jessie and I bought fruit from local venders and made a delicious salad of apples, bananas, oranges, peaches, grapes, strawberries, and plums. From there the girls and boys split ways, and I showed her the peculiar Recoleta cemetary. We went then to El Museo Xul Solar, an art museum dedicated to this one artist, whose style would be better understood through google than my words. From there, we went to Palermo, where I met one of my professors from this past semester to talk about Argentina while Jessie wrote in the Botanic Gardens across the street. After about 2 hours of cultural chatting, Jessie came and joined us, and the two of them discussed the whore'dom of madonna. It was a beautiful moment. Jessie and I returned HOME, relaxed a bit, and then I prepared a dinner of squash with spinach, yellow peppers, onion, garlic, and parsley, while I gave Spanish lessions to her. We left at about 1030 to search for this one bar in Almagro with Tango singing.
I´m not going to go into all the magic we found there, but say simply, Jessie was so moved by the singing even without understanding what it meant that she burst into tears afterwards. It was beautiful.
We returned to my apartment and climbed up on the roof, where we listened to Madeline Peyroux, drank wine, and ended up falling asleep until it began to rain and we went running back inside.
Anyways, this is just a little flavor of what we´ve been up to lately. Right now she´s on the phone with her mom and I´m drinking mate and relaxing before I have to leave for work at 6.

Sending much love back to the states.
Besos,
Meli

Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Hay Que Recordar de Respirar

Jessica Eisenmann is coming to Buenos Aires.
Nothing else matters.
That is all.

Monday, December 27, 2010

TAKI TAKI TAKI

WOW so it's been a while, huh?

These past few weeks have been full of change and I don't want to write forever so I'll try to sum things up....
-MOVED! Finally I have my own room. And I know every night that there'll be a place for me to sleep!!! This was definitely something I took for granted. It's such freedom! I have my own set of keys! And a shared space in a refrigerator!!! It's a beautiful place in Cabellito (a neighborhood/el barrio) with sun roof that can open and close, it's got a terrace outside my window, and TONS and TONS of plants. I'm not gonna lie, I feel very Frida Kahlo. There's also a cat, but sometimes there isn't...... I share the place with three other Argentines: a dancer, an actress, and a musician. They're wonderful. Tonight we drank Fernet and Coke, and played a game called "Taki," which is kind of like Uno, but more competitive. Taki get's intense, yo. You don't know shit till you play Taki.
-NEW JOB! It wasn't exactly an easy search ("um hi I'm from the United States. i want to be a waitress. no i do not have experience....") but I found a post on craigslist for a job at this bar called "Wherever." I applied and ya esta, boludo! The pay is decent- accordingly to the prices of food, etc, here- but nothing compared to the U.S. Tip is like 5%. It's dreadful. Fortunately, customers like me so I sometimes I get 10! It's in Palermo, so a fun neighborhood, and it's got good vibes and increeeeddddible music. The only down is that it's a 45min-hour commute from my house, and the buses are infrequent. That part blows, especially when I get off of work at 4am, have to wait 40 minutes, then another 40 minutes to get home..... lo que sea. It's a really cool experience to have.
-Etc: a punk concert in San Telmo, hamburgers on the rooftop in Belgrano, tropical terraza party in Palermo, chill bars in Almagro, ritzy apartments Recolata, going for runs in Cabellito, fashion photoshoot in San Cristobal, a painting collective in Saavedra, drawing, writing poetry.... I'm actually kind of exhausted recounting it. It's really been somethin,' though.... to live so submerged and without other study abroad students.
-The HEAT: It's absolutely madness. I take 2 showers a day, at least, just to keep from sticking to myself. The humidity is the worst part.

BLAHHH Okay I'm tired I'm gonna roll. Pictures coming. Maybe I'll write again soon, but for your own safety, don't hold your breath.

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Cucarachas y Santas, Villa 21

This is La Villa 21.
Yesterday in Buenos Aires was a feriado (a holiday), called El Dia de La Virgen (The Day of the Virgin) to celebrate La Santa Maria. A celebration was held in her honor yesterday in La Villa 21. "Villas" are basically the slums of Buenos Aires. The majority of the residences of the greater BsAs area have never and will never go there, it's "peligroso" (dangerous" reputation makes sure of that. However, when Agustin, a faculty member of IES who has been working with an organization to help La Villa 21, invited me to come to this festival to take pictures, I couldn't refuse. He told me he didn't think I should have any problems at the event, but still, he couldn't promise anything.
We took the colectivo (bus) 37 to Barracas, a barrio (neighborhood) just past La Boca, the colorful neighborhood which draws in tourists, but is unsafe outside the main areas. From Barracas, we walked down a long road to get to La Villa; one lined with factories behind tall brick walls and barbed wire. Agustin tells me that the vast majority of inhabitants there are Paraguayan immigrants. As the road continues, the mounds of trash thicken, and nearly carpet the ground.
La Villa is like a different country altogether. El Centro (downtown), Recoleta, and Palermo, resemble a combination of Paris and New York; urban, progressive, yuppie. Here, the expression "third-world" completely fits. Yet, I came on a very different day. Yesterday was a religious day. Everyone was there with their family, their children, their grandparents, and despite the fact that my Nikon stood out in the sweaty masses of arms holding up cellphones to take a picture of a small statue of La Virgen, I didn't feel unsafe. The neighborhood was clearly poor, but they didn't seem to see each other that way; just as family. There was singing, dancing, clapping, and praying. At the end, around 10 o'clock, after some something 0r other (it was kind of hard to see) everyone began hugging and kissing each other on the cheek, saying what I believe translates to "May you go with God." (What a way to spend Chanuka, huh?) Despite my camera, despite the fact that my skin was noticeably lighter and my eyebrows not drawn on with pencil, I was treated with the utmost kindness. It was an incredible experience. (Though, not a neighborhood I'll be returning to any time soon, and surely not by myself.)

If you care to read a little bit more, you can find an article about La Villa 21 here.
Photos coming soon!! (The one about isn't mine)

Be well, everyone

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

La la la la liiiista

Damas y caballeros....


I cant really keep track of days or courses of actions anymore but I'll try to recount some stuff....


(1) After visiting tons and tons of apartments I finally found one!!! It's kind of far though, in a barrio (neighborhood) called Cabellito. HOWEVER it's a way good precio and pretty so I'm excited. Below is a subte map (not all of it, I cut off some of the stuff which doesnt really apply) but to give a general idea of location:








On the green line:
-The one most on top: Ministro Carranza. This is where I take my tango class.
-The other one: Tribunales. This is the closet stop to where I'm staying right now.



One the darker blue line:
-The one on top: General San Martin. This is the stop closest to IES (my previous semester program) and right next to Plaza San Martin
-The one on the way bottom: Independencia. This is the line closest to San Telmo.



On the light blue line:
-The one on the right: Loria. This is in Once (kind of a trek from IES) where I had my tango class at IUNA
-The one on the left: Acoyte. This is the stop in Cabellito by where I'll be living.



From El Centro (the tangly part to the right) to Acoyte en el subte (subway).... I dont really know, I imagine it would take about 30 minutes or so. Whateverrr I'll put picks up of the place when I get there.


(2) I've been applying to jobs like crazy! I even had an interview yesterday which was kind of nerve-wrecking (how do you spell that?) but I think it went as well as it could have. I don't have waitressing experience which definitely hurts my chances of finding a place, but fortunately my Spanish was really good when I talked to him (without stumbling, or stuttering and such).



(3) Yesterday, basically my day was like this: I woke up, went to IES to use the internet, went to Wherever bar to drop off an application, went to Recoleta to do some errands, went BACK to Wherever bar in Palermo to talk to the owner of the place, went back to El Centro to the place I'm staying, walked Lara the dog, took a shower and changed (because the humidity here is unreal!) and speeeeeed walked over to Burger King for the goodbye dinner for Alli (que elegante, no?). I was late- surprise surprise- so we soon after left. I walked back to Alli's with her to say goodbye to her before she left for the airport. I'm so sad all my yankee friends are leaving :-(


After that, I walked over to Riobamba street (in recoleta) for a birthday party with a friend from Chabad. I was really glad there were snacks there, because I didn't get anything at Burger King. (It was surprisingly expensive!!!) We hung out, ate food, had cake, chatted..... etc. etc. ... and then I went to ANOTHER birthday party in Colegiales, a barrio right next to Palermo. I was kinda nervous at first because I only knew one person and it was all spanish speakers there but it was actually suuuuper fun. The main party action was on this beautiful terrace with lights and such, and loooots of liquor. I think my spanish gets better when I drink? When I'm tired it's AWFUL but when I drink.... I dont know maybe I just get less nervous. Either way. I was chaaatttttting with lots of peeeeeeopple.... it was really fun. I have no idea what time I got back "home" so yeahhh it was fun haha.



(4) Later today, I'm going to La Villa with one of the faculty (spelling?) dude from IES.... it's some community event for the holiday today (El Dia de La Virgen). I don't know what it's gonna be about but he said it was be a good foto opportunity. I think I'll have to barb-wire the camera to my hands though....




Well I'm off to drink some mate with a friend. More soon. Oh! And here's latest netbook pic:



(Alli and me)
I know I know we classy ladiez.....

Monday, December 6, 2010

Pepino = Cucumber

Yay!! It's your lucky day!!! Today I've decided I'm too lazy to write anything so you get to see some pictures!!!! Woooooooo!!!!

Several weeks ago, I told people to let me know if someone wants a portrait taken of them before they leave to return to the United States. Here are a couple of photos from 2 of several photo shoots that I did.


Anna, Recoleta

Rebecca, Palermo

This is a photo taken on the A line of the Subte (subway), the only line which still uses the original cars with a wooden interior. It feels like a completely different era. If you're lucky, you might catch a car playing classical music!

This, my friends, is the beautiful Sara, who has now returned to Miami :-(((
She doesn't really like her picture taken but I forced her into it. She said, "What do you want me to do?" and I said "Look at me like you love me!" and she did this. My heart....



San Telmo




Taxista, San Telmo


Lightning stuff from Nate's rooftop in Palermo
(I wrote about this night in some post before this one...)



The patio



Kasper made me dinner mmmm soo gooood


Incredible view of the Recoleta Cemetery

Danielle's.... I stayed on this sofa one night


Okay that's all for now.... why is this underlined all of the sudden? Damn technology!
Tomorrow I say goodbye to Alli, hopefully finally pick an apartment, and plan on going to two b-day parties. ((Sigh)) Now if only I could find some time to sit and write!!!!!!!!!

Besos, feliz chanukah,
Meli